Yin Yankee Review-Washington Times Magazine

The Washington Times
Magazine (Weekend Edition)

-April,2004

When you think of historic downtown Annapolis, the words edgy, bold and fun generally don’t come to mind. But just one trip to the Yin Yankee Café will give you a new perspective on the old state capital.

A word of warning: If you don’t like seafood, your selection will be limited. And if you’re stuck on tradition, you had better keep traveling up Main Street. The food at Yin Yankee speaks to you.

The cuisine is Asian Fusion, so chopsticks are the utensils of choice, and there’s even a special children’s version. Of course, knives and forks are available if your mouth moves
faster than your fingers.

The appetizers are unique takes on traditional standbys. Our waiter Raj Konar, aka Saki Swami, told us the chili pod fried calamari ($8.25) is the best calamari in town and we have no reason to doubt his word. The calamari is flash-fried, so it is light and crisp. We were especially pleased with the selection of both tubes and tentacles, as each has its own unique flavor and texture. It is served with a soy, shallot and cilantro dipping sauce.

Thai-style mussels ($8.25) takes a traditional favorite and brightens it with lemon grass, kefir lime and Thai chili broth. The broth is so good, a spoon is provided to catch every drop.

Other choices include shrimp won ton, gingered chicken pot stickers, duck spring roll, shrimp and veggie beignets and chicken or beef yakitori.

Noodle bowls are available for starters or as a meal with the addition of chicken, duck or shrimp. The Vietnamese noodle bowl offers glass noodles, cilantro and daikon in that luscious chili lemon-grass broth. Wok-seared vegetable and udon noodles are flavored with peanut-lime sauce.

Tea-Smoked duck ($20.95) is the only non-seafood main dish. The duck is very moist and stands up to the rich sauce that accompanies it. It is served with crispy beans, shitake mushrooms and a scallion pancake to use as a wrap. Fragrant and flavorful coconut rice (available as a side) adds another contrast of flavor and texture.

If you are a tuna fan, this sushi house is certainly the place to get it---and an extensive selection of sushi, as well.

Jade seared tuna ($23.95) comes with a recommendation of rare---and rare is a perfect way to describe the flavor as well. It is an extraordinary marval of flavor and texture, but that’s what you get with good tuna. The horseradish-daikon crust adds a bit of crunch and flavor to the outside. It is served with a mountain of wasabi mashed potatoes—real wasabi, not that imitation stuff you get at some restaurants—and a unique seaweed salad.

Unfortunately on this evening, no whole fish were available for the banana-leaf and curry-roasted fish, so that will have to wait for the next visit. Another must-try is the “crabchop” (at market price), which is Yin Yankee’s version of crab cakes.

If you’re new to the world of sushi, the staff will offer a mini primer on sashimi, nigiri, rolls and the café’s great “funky maki,” which are interesting combinations. The Annapolitan ($9.95) offers lump crab, cucumber, avocado and mango. Oishi ebi combines battered fried popcorn shrimp and cucumber with spicy sauce inside and crunchy tempura outside.

The dessert menu is as fun and funky as everything else. Crazy Banana features coconut ice cream, mango and berry coulis and a grilled honey-drizzled banana. If chocolate is more your style, a rich chocolate terrine is the perfect combination of dark and white chocolates. Smooth, refreshing and not to sweet, it is a lovely layering of chocolate ganache and mousse, with a touch of white and regular chocolate in the middle. Or try the white chocolate mousse accented with raspberries.

The lunch menu is almost the same as dinner except for the entrées. Choices include tempura fish and chips, chicken tahini wrap or the Yin Yankee burger, which is topped with caramelized onions and Gorgonzola cheese.

Service is applaudable, but don’t be in much of a hurry. The timing of the plates is a little irregular, as the small staff seems to have its hands full with a packed house. It’s also tough on a busy night to get to the unisex bathroom.

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